And I thought it would be warm.....

Day 30
Today's Ride from Lockhart to La Grange started poorly and ended the same. We had rain starting late last night and intermittent showers all night and all day. We started in high 40 temps and rode in the 50s in a cold rain all day. Yech. I was one frozen Florida boy... We are staying in the Rec Center in La Grange since the public campground seems to FLOOD when it rains.
Oh and La Grange was the setting for the (loosely) historically based play and movie “The Best Little Whorehouse in Texas”......... I guess it's closed now... oh well... ;-)
 Oh, and we saw our first fields of Blue Bonnets.. more to come!

Cold, rainy, icky day

Texas Blue Bonnets

Day 29
Blanco to Lockhart took us pretty much out of the Hill Country. Don't get me wrong, we still had over 2,000 feet of climbing but it's not THE Hill Country we just left! The day was cold and overcast and a bit dreary.
We stopped in Kyle for lunch at the Texas Pie Company. I'd try to describe it but knowing how badly I'd fail, I'll just post a bunch of (fuzzy) pics below. Suffice it to say, it was one very neat place!
We also hit a bike shop (we hit ALL the bike shops even if we don't really NEED anything cause you never know what you might find...;-)
Sure see some strange modes of transportation along these old roads....
I mean, just where DOES one pick up a used, US Navy, carrier based A-7 Corsair jet fighter???

interesting forms of transport 

Day 28
It was very cold when we rode from Kerrville to Blanco today taking sleepy, little traveled Farm to Market Roads through more beautiful Hill Country. We made our first stop in Comfort. Comfort seems to be a thriving, artsy, upbeat community. On one main corner in town is an outdoor "art gallery" with large sculpted/welded pieces for sale. We had hot drinks on this cold morning at Cafe High's coffee shop, a wonderful mix of book store, art gallery, coffee shop, bakery and winery! Warm and cozy and we did not want to leave! It's nice having civilization along the route, unlike west Texas and most of New Mexico and Arizona, but it's hard to get motivated to get back on the bike and ride after squandering an hour in such warm comfort when it's cold outside!
And Blanco is a lot more like Kerrville was 30 years ago than what Blanco was 30 years ago. Comnfort is like Blanco was 30 years ago!
Doug's take on “Progress”? Bah Humbug....

Comfort's Art Corner

Coffee Shop, book store, art gallery, wine etc

The Guadalupe again

more interesting forms of transport

Day 27
Our route from Concan to Kerville takes us into the “official” Hill Country” of Texas and took me back in time about 57 years........
A long time ago, in a Galaxy Far away, I was 7 years old and went away to summer camp in a place called Camp Stewart in Hunt Texas. It was there that I shot my first bow, fletched my first arrow, paddled my first canoe, and shot in my first shooting competition. As all of you know, I spent most of my life doing those activities and still love to do all of those thing....
So when we rode into Hunt, TX I knew exactly where I was and parted company from my companions and rode off on the old Farm to Market road that would take me back to camp and, it turned out, back about 57 years.
I had thought that since summer was not here yet for the campers, I might get to peer in through the gate or maybe get lucky and chat with a caretaker. I was surprised when I rode up and thu the open gate and saw people in the office just where it used to be.

I walked in and identified myself as an alumni camper and was greeted very warmly. As I told the tale of my cross country bicycle trip bringing me back to Hunt the friendly staff called in more and more people to listen. I ended up with the camp's owner, her family who runs things and two staff who are also cyclists, all quite interested in the trip.
I was then given a tour of the camp and discovered the most amazing thing: ALMOST  NOTHING HAS CHANGED!
I have gone back to old schools, homes, and towns all over the place and have often, well, almost always been saddened or disappointed that things seem to have changed so much as to often be unrecognizable. And usually the changes are definitely for the worst.
Camp Stewart has managed to stay in WONDERFUL condition thanks to a dedicated staff and the place is almost exactly as it was in the 50s. Even my old cabin is the SAME one that I lived in! The archery has been moved to it's own dedicated FITA type range and there are additional equestrian facilities but the rest, except for a few rock and river alterations done by Mother Nature, the place is virtually unchanged.
I had a wonderful visit and tour with the staff and thank them kindly for their interest and hospitality!
I had spent an hour or so at the camp and needed to get back on route to Kerrville but I was sad to leave but happy to know that “some things never change”..

The road which had brought so many memories flooding back, from the first time we crossed the Guadalupe to Hunt, changed drastically as we neared Kerrville. It became one huge urban sprawl/strip mall/industrial park nightmare.. I was quite saddened and did not want to continue. Oh well...
Kerrville is no longer a sleepy little town. Maybe Blanco, tomorrow will be like I remember....

The Guadalupe River

Camp Stewart

Indian Head Rock (canoes)

Swimming hole

My same old cabin! (I admit that the Oak is LOTS bigger!)

The Office

Can Anybody see the Hill Country from Here?

PICTURES may have to wait till Kerrville tomorrow. 
Day 25 Bracketville to Concan for a REST DAY!
The ride to Concan was a nice ride. While we did start into a slight headwind, we made a turn to the north in Uvalde, where we stopped at an old Drive-in now called Ofelia's for Mexican food. The northward turn did two things, got us a slight tailwind and after about 20 miles the topography changed drastically and almost instantly from the dry, flat, brown of “West Texas” to the rolling, green “Texas Hill Country”.
Also we have dropped quite a bit of altitude so the morning temperatures are a LOT warmer and the highs are going to go for the 60-70s to the high 80s or 90s. Heck, there was DEW on my tent this morning!
All this change in one day's ride... Go figure.

Here at the Riverbend campground we are out of our tents for two nights and have a CABIN here for four of us: Roland, RO, PW and myself. The layout is for a family with a queen bed in the main area and three smaller beds in the back room. Guess who got the Queen? Hehehehe. Pays to be first into camp!! Now, I did NOT move the luggage around, I just walked in, long before my roomies arrived, and my luggage was already placed there just by luck of the draw but for some incomprehensible reason they don't believe me.... However my suitemates DID admit that had they arrived before me, the first to arrive would have magically been in that bed... If you can't throw your friends under to bus, what's the point in having them?

On this day off there are NO activities planned! Took the day to adjust my brakes that were squealing like mad, clean the bike up, empty my duffles and shake out the sand and repack. And take three (so far!) HOT showers in our own private bathroom!!!!! Amazing how one changes one's mind about what constitutes “luxury” when on a two month bicycle trip........
Wish Michelle was back. My legs need a massage!

Almost there

The edge of Hill Country

Our cabin for two nights

my "room"... SCORE!

Their room..... hehehe

Day 24 Comstock to Brackettville
We rode into decreasing headwinds for most of the ride so it was far more doable than yesterday. Had a shopping stop mid-route at the Wal-Mart in Del Rio for a few depleted items then to Rudy's a few yards away for some Texas BBQ. The brisket was OK but better at the highs school! And my pulled pork is LOTS better! ;-)
We then had a police escort out of town, one car for each ten riders. Weird... We must have made quite an impression, huh?

I rode solo today and arrived at our camp at Fort Clark quite early. Very intersting area. Fort Clark was a US Army Fort since the mid 1800s and saw Robert E Lee, Usslyses S Grant, Douglas MacArthur and George S Patton were ALL stationed there at some point in their career! The place is HUGE and was turned over to civillian use following WWII and many of the homes and places you can rent/stay are the original Army barracks and buildings.

Lucky for you, the sand isn't blowing into your eyes at 30mph

Awaiting the Law

Being run out of town

Who Knew?

Sand, Sand and, of course, more Sand

Day 23

Sanderson to Comstock started out hard and got a whole lot worse. A 78 mile ride into increasing winds than started the day at a forecasted 20-30 mph and a revised forecast of 30-40 mph winds from the southeast.. guess which way we were riding? Yep, Southeast, directly into the hardest winds I have ever ridden into in my life.

I rode solo most of the day and while it is easier to have a paceline, I was just far more comfortable at my own pace.

We did have a stop in the famous town of Langtry, home of the infamous Judge Roy Bean. Spent some time in the museum dedicated to him and his saloon, The Jersey Lilly. The history told by the museum exhibits dispels a lot of the myth, rumors and legend of the judge (mostly made up by himself and writers of the day). Like the fact that while he was known as “The Hanging Judge” there is no record of him actually hanging anyone, ever. It was a very interesting place and I am very glad I took the hour or so to visit before climbing back on to try to finish in the brutal winds.

Crossed the Pecos River (with real WATER in it) so are, supposedly no longer in, officially, West Texas.

Did I mention that it was windy and a hard ride? Only 11 of us actually rode all the way, the rest rode the SAG wagon from various points. Those of us that actually rode into camp on bikes got applause when we got to the campsite. We decided that the only reason they applauded was to hide the fact that they had used up all the hot water! ;-)

TOday truly was the hardest ride of my life. And while I never felt like quitting it still felt really good to know I finished!

The winds were blowing so hard that the guys setting up the tents had to hold them down while driving the stakes into rocky ground with hammers so they wouldn't blow away...

My tent was FULL of ultra fine reddish sand. So fine that when I opened the zipper of my duffles that were in the tent, there was a reddish line of sand right from end to end on top of my stuff where the sand had gone thru the CLOSED zipper!

Don't even ask about my sleeping bag!

Judge Roy Bean's House, Court and Saloon... One stop shopping!

The Jersey Lilly Saloon

The Pecos River

Day 22
We rode 55 miles to Sanderson from Marathon. We had a stiff, increasing headwind but I rode with some strong riders and with a rotating paceline we got in just fine. The prevailing West winds still haven't shown up so we are fighting East and South East daily winds that are making life tough for everyone. Really tough for some of the uh, "less prepared" riders...
My "bedroom" for the night was the bottom of a stairwell in the Sanderson School. Interesting place. Wonderful people. The typical small town from my youth. No one locks their doors or their cars. There are 49 students in the high school and 11 seniors, a bunch of whom prepared our dinner and breakfast as a fundraiser for their Prom Night. The dinner included some of the finest smoked Brisket I have ever had. And the smoker was built by one of the Seniors!

Day 21 was a day off. Most of the riders took a driving visit to Big Bend National Park. Since I had camped there both backpacking and on horseback when young, I felt resting up in the little "Oasis" rest areas would be a better use of my time.

Onward thru the Fog... uh, make that Sand

Day 20
Since today was to be a short and hopefully downwind  57 miles and I was feeling much improved, I decided to try riding the first 26 mile leg to Alpine and see how I felt. I could always grab a SAG ride to camp and since the next day is a rest day I could afford to try.
The ride to Alpine started a bit hard for me. We stopped at the Marfa Lights Viewing area 10 miles out of town and I took a short rest and after that the trip to Alpine was quite doable. We did have the expected tailwind, got to Alpine just in time for yours truly to grab the VERY LAST, VERY FAMOUS Cinnamon Bun at the Bread and Breakfast Cafe! Doug's Lucky day!
The last part of the ride was downwind and though hilly was easily done. I took it very easy and didn't bomb down the descents or do anything else that took much energy. I arrived at the campground in Marathon, TX feeling fine but when I got off the bike and relaxed I immediately felt a bit weak. I felt better after more fluids and rest and am feeling fine now as I type this the next afternoon on our rest day here. Tomorrow is to Sanderson, TX and is supposed to be into a strong headwind so.....
The campground/motel here is quite interesting. While it is impossible to fence the desert out completely, they have created a bit of an oasis in parts of the grounds. While the sand still blows into everything, as you will see from the photos, the "refuge" areas are quite nice...
The bottom photo is of a Rosemary plant about five feet high and eight to ten feet wide in one patio area. It is in bloom and there were hundreds of honeybees alighting on each of the tiny, orchid like flowers of the plant. I asked the staff it thee bees were wild or domesticated and was told they were wild. Too bad, I would LOVE to taste honey made exclusively from the herb Rosemary!

my tent just to the right of the tall stalk

a huge Rosemary herb plant covered with  honeybees 

Day 19
Well, I was up at 4 AM and not for a good reason. I finally caught whatever everyone else had; norovirus? 24 hour bug? Who knows. It was a bad night so I decided to SAG it today and not ride. I took some meds that one of the three Doctors on the trip had, napped out in Bubba's RV to be woken up so I wouldn't miss trying to pick something nice up at the Prada store near Marfa, TX for Victoria and Maggie.... Unfortunately, it wasn't open, Honest!!! But I took pics!
The ride for the others was a slight headwind to start then a quartering tailwind. A number of riders encountered a local sheriff who does not know the traffic laws of his own state. They were told that by Texas law they HAD to ride on the crappy far too narrow shoulder, not on the road. When Bubba found out he made a point to go see said officer and after a conference call with some Texas State Troopers, the Sheriff was set straight. Helps to have a Homicide detective/SWAT team member on your team! ;-)
A bunch of us took a few cars out to view the famous Marfa Lights. took an hour or so. We all agreed to come back and tell everyone how cool and mysterious they were but the truth is that we saw absolutely nada, zero, zilch, but had a good time doing so!!

Yes Virginia Victoria, there is a Prada in West Texas 

Sorry girls...

Day 18
75 miles to Van Horn TX today. Pretty hard day with a stiff headwind and a steep climb 18 miles into the ride. Spent some time on Interstate 8 today. We have been told many times that both the roads and the drivers in Texas are the worst we will encounter on the trip, and as far as the roads, that section of I-8 certainly seems to bear that out. The shoulder was pretty bad and the main lanes looked the same. And we spent about 1/3 or all our riding on this trip in Texas. So far the drivers, at least near El Paso have been quite courteous, as have the very large majority of drivers in the last three states.
Staying in a KOA tonight with decent shower facilities. It started raining as soon as we got in but is supposed to clear before morning.

dry most of the time but watch out in the monsoon season!

my typical nightly mess... repacked every morning

Day 17
The short 57 mile run from El Paso to Ft. Hancock was an interesting ride from the north west of town through downtown to the southeast side of town where we found a market with awesome baked goodies.  Then on through Fabens where we had a great Mexican food lunch at Margarhita's Cafe then on down the road to the Ft Hancock High School where we spent the night in the gym.
While we had been traversing desert for some days at this point, this was our first experience with blowing desert sand that covers and penetrates EVERYTHING. The sidewalks at the school were virtually buried in sand and accretions that you's need a chisel to remove. The sand blows under and thru door and window seals.

about to head downtown

El Paso

Breakfast of Champions!

Whatever you do, do not pick pecans.....